Posted: 24 September 2008 at 7:33pm | IP Logged

hiya i am just going to do a copy and paste from the other site to here with all the info and stuff what youll need.

but please before starting anything , be carefully when trying this, remember this is still pritty new and so far ive had good results (its not 100% but hell 90% better is good for me) but so far i have hear 1 person who has had problem were the treatments gone to far (ill included it here).

also the H202 is not to be mest with, only use it with care, as if it gets into contast with skin it will nip (like pins and needles and numbness for a while after it, but its not lasting) also you skin will go white which lasts for a few hours, always use rubber cloves when useing the stuff and old cloths is recommended to just in case

anyways here go enjoy (yer its long )

this is a catch up (the story so far lol)
so far whats been treated (before and after)
seacon parts before and after (most notable is the fin ):-

close up of a seacon clip:-


first attempt in the jar (before and after)my mates ratchet
 parts been placed into solution

after treatment
 
note the bubbleing
this is a side by side of ratchet (well top and bottom lol) before and after and again this is after only 48 hours total .


and also the metal front was also steeped with the clear plastic windscreen still fixed, with no damage to the clear plastic ether
in robot mode

seacon feet plates

cyclonus wings (silver) left side wing side wing

and cerebros

Posted: 24 September 2008 at 7:35pm | IP Logged

my tests
NOTE:- i was also testing other action figure lines too
started the testing at 3.00p.m, weather was over cast and no sun and wouldnt say it was hot or cold.
these are my test items  -
lovely yellowey goodness -
 
and this is my ratchet (oh boy more brownchet ..or brown hide ?!!)



these photos were taken  -
3.00p.m.

3.30p.m

4.30p.m.

5.30p.m.

6.30p.m.

and finaly 8.00p.m.

as you can see by the photos there wasnt much going on and apart from bubbles no change .
at this point 9.30p.m. i didnt take a photo as there realy wasnt any change and i had to call it a night as i had to get the bane to bed, but before i left it for the night i took it into the sitting room and placed on the window ledge as the sun comes up realy early and hits there first.
end of test for the night .
this morning 9.00a.m.
WHAMMMM!!!


yep things changed ...a lot !!.
firstly i will point out a few things
a) the sun is a main factor in the stuff working as you can see in both photos every think which is suposed to be white has turned white, but the stuff out of sight of the sun has just realy slightly turned and not fully changed back.
b0 the jetfire cheast part was suposed to only turn white were the piece was in the solution but infact it all turned white so it looks like as the solution heats up and condences it still works (i had a lid on this at all times to save it from evaporating).
after photos

(i didnt take the ratchets photos yet as ive turned al lthe parts round so the tainted sides gets  treated )
the chest piece dosnt realy show it here but it realy is white
this is the head stormtropper


the head has also been placed back in the solution to see if i can get it whiter (again this part was away from sunlight)
decoy


i think its turned the purple a lighter shade (ive never owned a fresh unyellowed one so i carnt tell)?
anyways the tests show  it works on other plastics and rubber types (and the rubber still hasnt changed, still bendy)
at the moment ive got the stormtropper head back in the gear so hopefully itll turn a bit more .
ill keep yer posted
next parts (some of the ratchet parts still need a little longer) but take note of the landerd head its finished

i think this is more importent to most of yers though (sorry i too a tf nut)
but the final step for the storm tropper head
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=289g84x&s=3

this is the head in the shade


the photos realy dont show it as well but the head is white and no side effects to the plastic (eg still rubbery too)
landed head

decoy bendy test

please also not this was posted on another site too hence the other figure lines

Posted: 24 September 2008 at 7:35pm | IP Logged

now the hows, whats, were and importent the safty bit.
this has been a long time research progect (come hobby) for both my mate and myself, were talking years here and have tryed a number of daft ideas rangeing from bleach to toothpaste and from brasso to vinigar!!

firstly i must repeat:-
this is realy only at test stage this has now been going on for aprrox 3 weeks only so more tests are needed, not only to stop anyone destroying any figures .
also please note use at your own risk .

this is a statment from the lad (my mate) who found this idea:-

HI there i'm new to the boards, but by way of introduction I'm catguts mate, (the one who has been trying out ways of removing the yellowing from figures, in my case transformers). and the suggestion to use this method was given to me by a friend who uses this in labs all the time and stated that it "lightens the colours" on their coloured plastic equipment and therefore may be of use here.

The trial i have been conducting is using a 30% Hydrogen peroxide solution, which can be obtained with a little research on the net (apparently you can get this as a health supllement??)

Anyway i have been soaking the pieces in a glass container and placing this in direct sunlight (ironic i know) , this appears to react with the peroxide causing it to "bleach" the plastics back to their original colours. Unlike conventional bleech this does not appear to cause a brittleness in the plastic after cleaning, however its earlly days yet so use this method at your own risk. The figures i have tried this on were either spares or in dire need of attention.

Now heres the warning part Peroxide is listed as harmful, and so gloves and care should be used when working with this stuff, the contact times vary depending on the plastic and the level of yellowing seen.

If you spill this on skin rinse immediately with plenty of water, the skin will turn white but should return to normal after about 30 to 60 minutes and is associated with a pins and needles type of sensation which lasts for about 10 minutes.

Again use this material and method at your own risk,so far i have had success with all of the figures i have tried this on but i am only trying it on hard - not waxy or rubbery- plastics so the effect on these is currnetly untried.

I'll keep forwarding pics as time and the trial goes by but so far its looking promising.

this also contains the infomation which you need to try this out
also ready my test above to find out the follow up tests which i did and my results.

Posted: 24 September 2008 at 7:36pm | IP Logged

and heres the news yer been waiting for were to get this stuff
this link is for the usa posters -
(these are larger amounts and maybe better to get in a group)

http://www.purewaterworksinc.com/prices.htm

were useing food grade (mine is 35%)

u.k. posters -

http://www.reagent.co.uk/hydrogen-peroxide-100-volumes-lrg/h ydrogen-peroxide-100-vols-lrg.html

this is only 27.5% but shold do the job.
but this site can suply 100ml bottles of 35% stuff

www.healthleadsuk.com

http://www.healthleadsuk.com/supplements/liquid-concentrates -solutions-etc/hydrogen-peroxide-35-food-grade-100ml.html

but remember buy and use at your own risk.

Posted: 24 September 2008 at 7:37pm | IP Logged

asnwering qutions on were to buy

try home and barrets (thinks thats the name) but also try health stores too,
the stuff my mate used is 30% but the type im useing is the 35% food grede (it comes and is used in concentrated form) all you do is place it in a jar and pop the items in (lol the jar im useing is a coffee jar).
the bottle size which i got is only 100ml but it gos a long way but the links above are only for examples of places to find em (hot shots right goggle it theres loads of places out there) also that quantity is massive so the best idea would be to buy in a group if you were to buy this much (5gals would probely turn off before youd use it all, also id recommend not haveing that much in the home at one time, but again the links provided are only a guide to what to look for),
this stuff is used in all sorts of things from food to cleaning and from hair dye to medical.
time traveller i know on the other site a guy has tryed the 3% stuff  and yes it dose work but takes a lot longer (hes useing it on a mask vehicle)
im not sure if theres a healthleads in the usa ? but thats the place mine came from and thay deliver pritty quick .
hot shot the seacons come up a treat when complete
i forgot to post the final photos of them !!
also to give a guide to how good and how little youll need of this stuff , ill get a list of the bots which has been done off my mate (hes been running the test longer) as he to has only been getting the 100ml bottles as well.
300ml so far has done -
ratchet
cerebros
tentakil
jawbreaker
skalor
both arm ramps off fort max
starscream wing (all 6)
cyclonus wing tips
jawbreaker gun
the car off typiticon
and a host of scrap test parts
plus the solotion is still working too

Posted: 24 September 2008 at 7:38pm | IP Logged

seacons done so far

if you look at the photos above jawbreaker was on of the first to be tested, also note the whiteing on the top, this was due to him been left steeping to long, but if you keep an eye on it (also recommended for any darker plastic colour) this wont happen.
i would recommend keep checking every 30min. just to be sure, if you think the parts clean take it out ,steep it in cold water for about 30mins and check it, if it still needs longer just repeat until done.

also i would like to add, please please above all else just be careful in useing this stuff, it works a treat and dose the job, but at all times be careful as it can be very harmful too.

Posted: 24 September 2008 at 7:39pm | IP Logged

answering a question on the seacon stickers

strange as it sounds the stickers have also been treated too, most stickers are fine and as long as you dont touch the sticker when you take the part out and allow to dry off (after takeing the part out of the soloution you must soak it in cold water, i normaly do this for 30mins. the take it out of the water and place on a board ) by itself (normaly therell still be a few drops but if you pat dry the part it should be fine).
the only stickers so far which dosnt stand up well to the treatment is the paper type ones , especialy the ones also heavy yellowed (aka ratchets red strips) also the foil type stickers seem fine.
if you get some electirc spary (recol is good) you can take the stickers off before, but spraying the sticker then use a craft knife to lift an edge, then use flat end twezzers to slowly lift the sticker off , if it starts to stick, spray again and keep repeating until off, have a sheet of plastic (like a c.d. cover and stick the sticker on there until your ready to put it back on the figure (useing the electic spray keeps the glue sticky).
haveing sayed that lol get a set of repo sticker to make it minty again.
the sticker sheets for these seacons are in the post as we speak so he just poped em in the stuff without removeing the sticker.
hope this helps :wink:

and yep ramjets right, i was speaking tto the lad last night and he said it was slowly changeing, also found out this stuff he was useing was a paste and he mixed it with water, seems to work but again takes longer

Posted: 24 September 2008 at 7:40pm | IP Logged

answering a question about chrome parts

cheers cliffjumper many thanks
hot shot this is a funny question to answer .
i was warned that the effects on metals may corrode it but on an metels ive tested so far its had ether no effect or a postive effect (i put a realy bad brainstorm head in the stuff, which has a pin though the legs, very heavey rusted, also yellow down 1 side)
heres the results (i did take a before photo of this and other parts but when itransferd em to the comp, it crashed and i lost em  :cry:  )
but if you look close to the rusted top, you can see it was so heavey it even stained the plastic around

as you can see the metal is starting to show though and the rust is going

this is him finished (the arm was broken along time ago, so i though id use it to test the colours)
also ratchets front plate and feet plates are both metal
heres a close up of the metal from both bits after treatment

(the paint was chipped before been treated so the metal was exposde to the soloution, also that head stick was also still on the plastic and treated too)

these are wing pins from a silverbolt (i took them out when i read your post).
anyways i have now got one of the pins in the soloution testing for you, its been in there about 3hours so far, but ill keep it in over night to see how it reacts.
i think if the metal is good quality (eg the pins and plates) it seems to be fine, but some times the screws are a cheaper metal quality and my well corroude.
also i wil ladd this update from the other site (contains some tfs).
also it has a full view of the ratchet robot.
oh should add the chome plastic bits were also treated with no ill effects.
this is the next batch done, also apart from a gundam action figure i think its all i have (yellowed) which i can do.

close up on blue rubber fake robot
before

after

no signs of any change to the plastic, bar the yellowing going
this is the skullgrin sword and the gundam small figure before

gundam now

sword (heavey yellowed 1)


i did a close up to show the liver spots now, that havent totaly gone but much better than before, after a few more treatments these may go
block man figure close up
[IMG]http://i26.tinypic.com/r0762v.jpg[/IMG

Posted: 24 September 2008 at 7:41pm | IP Logged

answering a question on liver spotting on rubber

lol no problem T.T. im trying any think i can think of (also any lines which i have yellowed figures from for the other sites too).
with this sword i keeped a close eye on it until the colour came back to as close as normal as i could, its posable it might even get it to go away even more, but if its in to long the liver spots turn white, but even at the leave its at i think it looks 100% better than brown and black  :D  (i dont think itll ever get 100% back to normal but 90% to 95% a lot better )
ramjet mate, its posable that it would do the trick for this plastic also , so far any rubber or plastic types ive tryed its worked, i would try one out for you but sorry to say i dont have a thunder cat figure here , humm is the thunder tank plastic the same ? even the red seat (think thats a little softer plastic than the shell?.
if it is let me know and ill hack a bit off and try it for yer.
hot shot ,pin is still in and so far no change

Posted: 24 September 2008 at 7:42pm | IP Logged

answering questions about thundercat figures with crosion from the neck rings

please note i carnt take the credit mate, im just the second to test it out (also the gobby one  :D ) my mate found this worked on tfs ,i just added the other figure lines to test the plastics see if it worked on them too.
so far the good news is i havent found (any ive tested) that it dosnt work on or damages it (so far my tests have been going a week only, my mates comeing up 4 weeks same thing for both no negative effects to report ).
humm PVC is this the hard type plastics used in corps figures?, or the softer rubber like gundam action figures?
im not sure as i dont have a thundercats figure to test.... what about the wepons is this the same plastic , mum ras knife type plastic ?
if its the same i have one some were and ill test it, the only other thing i can sugest is try it out on a junker figure first and see if it works before placeing you good one in).
also the rings might well come out if there like the liver spots (sorry i carnt realy help a lot here as i dont have a sample  :(  ).
hot shot this is for you mate i took the pin out at 12 noon today and no change (well its shiney  :)  ), once i get 5 mins ill take a photo (i only placed 1 in the gear)

Posted: 24 September 2008 at 7:43pm | IP Logged

results on testing the metal pins after been asked about em

heres the photos of the pin after 24 plus hours in the stuff, the one on the left is the one which has been treated also in the now finished brainstorm head too

the one at the bottom is the one that was treated

Posted: 24 September 2008 at 7:44pm | IP Logged

after been asked if id stop testing (i haddent posted any news stuff for a few weeks)

hi sorry i aint be posting much as of late, i have had other problems i need to see to first (i have been checking back every day to see if there was any p.m. though) i can say though the weather up here hasnt been to good (lol very wet and over cast) this stuff definitly works best in the sun, or a heat lamp.
to be honist i dont realy have any other figure lines to test the plastic and see the affects on them, so ive started doing things from my own collection.
these are the final results off the parts ive done so far :-
the metroplex parts were realy yellowed(thay all were yellowed but hte M.P. were the worst) but now :-
 
this is the colour items (also ive noticed that the colour of the decoys have gone more there proper colour, as the red went a bit pink) :-

these are both the swords now (the bottom one is the first one i did, but due to matter i wasnt able to fully watch the second one as it was doing so it was in longer, which ended up a good thing as it got more of the liver spotting out ).

ratchet now (lol with kitbash stickers) :-



airwave just finished (he wasnt yellow but brown!!)

this is what im working on now.
its not a transformer but an old bandi figure i bought ages ago, i dont know the line or figure name, i just liked it (it dose have the word SHAIDER VAVILOS on the front ) it transforms into 3 modes (ship,gun and robot)

note these g2 sideswipe parts,inferno,ultra magnus and a few other bits among em) also in the jar is both the feet/ship nose of the figure im working on, its quite a size.

before and after (all the parts next were as yellowed as the part here)



next is the ones which ill be working on next

all the parts shown so far done are all from the same 100ml bottle of soloution, which is still working so ill keep at it until its turned .

Posted: 24 September 2008 at 7:46pm | IP Logged

after been asked how the stuff i had first done was holding up (eg side effects, britteling and stuff)

also a member posted a link to a helth warning

this is to add on from rattrap (this was posted already in page 1 but isnt on here page 2)

catgut wrote: firstly i must repeat:- this is realy only at test stage this has now been going on for aprrox 3 weeks only so more tests are needed, not only to stop anyone destroying any figures . also please note use at your own risk . this is a statment from the lad (my mate) who found this idea:- HI there i'm new to the boards, but by way of introduction I'm catguts mate, (the one who has been trying out ways of removing the yellowing from figures, in my case transformers). and the suggestion to use this method was given to me by a friend who uses this in labs all the time and stated that it "lightens the colours" on their coloured plastic equipment and therefore may be of use here. The trial i have been conducting is using a 30% Hydrogen peroxide solution, which can be obtained with a little research on the net (apparently you can get this as a health supllement??) Anyway i have been soaking the pieces in a glass container and placing this in direct sunlight (ironic i know) , this appears to react with the peroxide causing it to "bleach" the plastics back to their original colours. Unlike conventional bleech this does not appear to cause a brittleness in the plastic after cleaning, however its earlly days yet so use this method at your own risk. The figures i have tried this on were either spares or in dire need of attention. Now heres the warning part Peroxide is listed as harmful, and so gloves and care should be used when working with this stuff, the contact times vary depending on the plastic and the level of yellowing seen. If you spill this on skin rinse immediately with plenty of water, the skin will turn white but should return to normal after about 30 to 60 minutes and is associated with a pins and needles type of sensation which lasts for about 10 minutes. Again use this material and method at your own risk,so far i have had success with all of the figures i have tried this on but i am only trying it on hard - not waxy or rubbery- plastics so the effect on these is currnetly untried. I'll keep forwarding pics as time and the trial goes by but so far its looking promising. this also contains the infomation which you need to try this out also ready my test above to find out the follow up tests which i did and my results.

time traveller sorry to say my ratchet tires were realy shot, i tryed to take em off but the rubber has lost its elasticity (if yer look at the first post i made here you can see the tires already starting to split) but the good news is ive been told that skids tires are the same which i have a spare, when i sort it out ill put em on  :wink:  , so far apart from the change in yellowing theres no change to the plastic or rubber which ive done, the photos above was taken yesterday of the all the parts ive done so far.
i will post the photos of my mates seacons and cerebros as soon as the repo stickers arrive and he sends me the photos (also his ratchet and parts are all doing and looking great also  :wink:  )

Posted: 24 September 2008 at 7:47pm | IP Logged

after been asked about ratchets tyres

catgut wrote: time traveller sorry to say my ratchet tires were realy shot, i tryed to take em off but the rubber has lost its elasticity (if yer look at the first post i made here you can see the tires already starting to split) but the good news is ive been told that skids tires are the same which i have a spare, when i sort it out ill put em on  :wink:

 i think i should have added to this (sorry when i posted the reply id just gotton up  :oops:  ).
 the tires were already shot and i did try to take them off to repair, but not with the solution but with a liquid seal (its used on car repairs for plastic joints and windsceen seals, it turns into a rubber when dryed) but the liquid stuff had turned off so it was no good.
the tires and wheels were never in the solution as the front wheels are connected to the black back plates of the ratchet arms (i also removed these as thay werent yellowed) also i removed the pins of the rear wheels so these too were never in the solution.
lol i never though to test this type of rubber but i do have a few junker op primes with tires and ill test 1 to see the affect  :wink:

Posted: 24 September 2008 at 7:48pm | IP Logged

these are the photos of the ones my mate has done (these were treated aprox a month ago)
before :-

after treatment (this photo was taken about 30mins before been hosted)

also this is a prowl next to a reissue prowl which has just been completed (reissue is on the left )

all have no signs of any change to the plastic apart from the yellowing

Posted: 24 September 2008 at 7:49pm | IP Logged

reply after a admin on the site, tryed a 3% with sucsess

cheers time traveller for the input, its great to hear anothers results too.
heres the photos of the next lot done (i posted an early before photo above) :-

Posted: 24 September 2008 at 7:49pm | IP Logged

after been asked the size of container to use and type

to be honist im not sure ive only used clear glass jars (mainly so i can see the effect), butthe soloution dose come in a plastic bottle not glass (this is the 35% version im useing please ask time traveler on the 3% )
also ive found no damage to any of the plastics ive treated so i think itll be ok to use (im not 100% though so might be worth testing the container first with the solution also sun light is needed so if useing a frosted plastic it might take longer) .
for bigger items ive be useing pirex dishers you can get some pritty big ones (cover the container with clingfilm it works like a lid, just make sure to keep it in a safe place away from small children and pets also A MUST use rubber glooves to take the film off, clingfilm tends to draw near yer skin when useing it and if its got the H P on it it might get on your skin, also use gloove when testing,placeing and removeing items from the solution )
the the glass seems to help speed up the process as it traps the heat and magnefise the sunlight too
but ether way please let me know the results if you do deside to try it

Posted: 24 September 2008 at 7:51pm | IP Logged

this is a copy paste of the reply from the guy how used the 3%

Yes, 3% comes in a plastic bottle. I had pretty good luck with some smiley-yellow Gobot shuttles today. Actually, i was just thinking of using one of those disposable glad-ware thingies or a clear plastic donut box
as long as you can seal it shut, because the warm sun will evaporate that stuff so fast...
I have noticed that i haven't been getting the stark-white like catgut gets.
I'm going to try some second-iteration whitenings to see if it works with a fresh jar of juice, and if it does, i'd recommend the 3%, since it's much safer, and dirt cheap ($.50/ liter). That way if you spill some, it will sanitize the area of the spill and nothing else. Also, if your dog gets into it, it's probably dilute enough as to be pretty pet-safe...
like i said, you just have to be more patient with it. the good thing is, you don't have to watch it as carefully, or at all really

my reply

thanks T.T. (ment to say that earlyer  :oops:  ) im also over the moon with hearing youve had good results too  8).
maybe a daft thing to say but im just please it works, its took a long time for something been found to work, and as time traveler said 3% may take longer but its doing the job (even if it only gets back to 50% its better than yellow ?) also again safer too.
dose anybody know if the hairdye stuff is higher ( i was told it has a bottle of 10% in it, but the type my partner uses has a blue colour soloution in it ?)

Posted: 24 September 2008 at 7:52pm | IP Logged

about another month later, been asked if there was any side effects off the first batch

no not realy apart from some types of metals go rusty or end up with a white fuzz on it (removable with brasso and a soft cloth) the pins i tested for hot shot are still 100% perfect but has seen rusting on screws treated so id still recommend removeing the screws, painted metals (ratchets and other g1 metal body bits seem to be fine).
 :shock:  oh nuts i forgot to say, try a very light rub over with brasso on yer treated figure bits (very light and only a touch of brasso, to make a light film on the figure, then clean off ) it seems to make it shine better on the finished figure.
also  anything so yellowed its turning a green(shows more on gray plastic) it will turn it back 100% itll turn it gray but looks tainted (this is only very heavey yellowing)
if you look at the finished bits photo above the slugslinger wing hasnt turned to its normal colour but looks as though it has a light yellow on it, but im retreating to see if this gets any better.
other than that (any thing yellow to dark tan) seems to work a treat (ratchet was brown now hes white).
and no theres remissions of the yellowing returning or any weaking on any ive done or my mates ether (his has been going now for well over 6 weeks to a month) ive also got new photos to add off his new items too.
whoops forgot to add the decoy bit, also seems to have worked, figures still bendy and colours still the same too  :)