| Author |
|
gniwmadnug
Pretender
Joined: 10 September 2005
Location: United Kingdom
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 831
|
| Posted: 07 January 2007 at 12:21am | IP Logged
|
|
|
Hi
I posted this in another forum and haven't had much luck, so I thought I will try here.
I wondering about a few things relating to scratchbuilds:
1. How would you make things extent or retract? like legs on car alt TFs
2. How would make tight joints?
3. What do you use to strenghten plastic card/sheet styrene models? What the best materials for possibly light but strong frame?
Thanks in advance
__________________
|
| Back to Top |
|
| |
|
|
joshlowe
Combiner
Joined: 30 May 2005
Location: United Kingdom
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 1507
|
| Posted: 07 January 2007 at 1:31am | IP Logged
|
|
|
1 & 2 depend as there is no one way to do these things.
The easiest way is to grab parts from other figures.
Old BW figures and Bionicle's are great for joints, Alts themselves and quite a few G1 figures have parts that extend and retract.
Gundam's are also a source for more than a few scratchbuilders.
__________________
|
| Back to Top |
|
| |
gniwmadnug
Pretender
Joined: 10 September 2005
Location: United Kingdom
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 831
|
| Posted: 07 January 2007 at 1:47am | IP Logged
|
|
|
joshlowe wrote:
1 & 2 depend as there is no one way to do these things.
The easiest way is to grab parts from other figures.
Old BW figures and Bionicle's are great for joints, Alts themselves and quite a few G1 figures have parts that extend and retract.
Gundam's are also a source for more than a few scratchbuilders.
|
|
|
All I can think of is a rail like thing for retracting like the one found on BW Ram Horn's centre, but I don't know if that would work well to retract and extent an arm
__________________
|
| Back to Top |
|
| |
joshlowe
Combiner
Joined: 30 May 2005
Location: United Kingdom
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 1507
|
| Posted: 07 January 2007 at 2:07am | IP Logged
|
|
|
It all depends on size, weight etc.
At the large scale, you have G1 Blaster, Alt Skids (legs) and MP Starscream to name a few.
At a medium scale, the mechanism in G1 Soundwave's hand can be adjusted to make an extending or retracting arm, the legs on the smaller Energon prime do offer something similar.
And working at a slightly smaller scale, there are figures such as G1 prowl and his kind.
The legs can be very easily adapted into extending arms.
Even G1 Bumblebee has a mechanism that can be used in that way.
There are other figures from various lines, but it'd really help to know the size and the exact nature of the extension/retraction to be as helpful as possible.
Edited by joshlowe on 07 January 2007 at 2:15am
__________________
|
| Back to Top |
|
| |
Dreadwing
Staff
Joined: 31 May 2005
Location: Canada
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 1636
|
| Posted: 07 January 2007 at 2:09am | IP Logged
|
|
|
Heard of one where the builder actually but small gears in another with rods that slid in to block sliding. Mosty if you wnat retractable use something from the broken bots you can find around. BTW i added a site with "how toos" up above
__________________
|
| Back to Top |
|
| |
Sixshot
Matrix Bearer
My new Mavis :) Prez
Joined: 02 June 2005
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 16262
|
| Posted: 07 January 2007 at 2:00pm | IP Logged
|
|
|
For making tight joints (this is only in the case of ball joints mind) if you're going to be painting them then that usually adds a bit of extra subtance which makes the ball bigger so it can firmly move around in the socket without swinging around.
If you're not painting it then I heard somewhere someone used super glue and coated the ball in it and waited for it to dry then popped it into the socket where it became nice and tight. Obviously though, let it dry before putting it in the socket. I did this on my THS02 for the waist ball/socket and it seemed to work ok. Strangely though the glue set then sort of came off as if it was being shed. So I dunno. Ignore this whole post if you wish. 
__________________
|
| Back to Top |
|
| |
joshlowe
Combiner
Joined: 30 May 2005
Location: United Kingdom
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 1507
|
| Posted: 07 January 2007 at 2:50pm | IP Logged
|
|
|
Sixshot wrote:
I did this on my THS02 for the waist ball/socket and it seemed to work ok. Strangely though the glue set then sort of came off as if it was being shed. So I dunno. Ignore this whole post if you wish. |
|
|
I haven't needed to use it yet, but I keep hearing nail polish works wonders. It wears down, but much more slowly.
__________________
|
| Back to Top |
|
| |
Sixshot
Matrix Bearer
My new Mavis :) Prez
Joined: 02 June 2005
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 16262
|
| Posted: 13 January 2007 at 3:40pm | IP Logged
|
|
|
Oh yeah, thats probably ya best bet actually.
__________________
|
| Back to Top |
|
| |
Dreadwing
Staff
Joined: 31 May 2005
Location: Canada
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 1636
|
| Posted: 13 January 2007 at 5:32pm | IP Logged
|
|
|
THere was this one guy (maybe on transtopia) who was using a thing thin layer or rubber glued in the socket, Joints were tough but i bet it lawsted for ever. Thing is never heard anyone do it after
__________________
|
| Back to Top |
|
| |
Sixshot
Matrix Bearer
My new Mavis :) Prez
Joined: 02 June 2005
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 16262
|
| Posted: 14 January 2007 at 12:56pm | IP Logged
|
|
|
Hmm, it wasn't that Plastidip stuff was it?
You could dip the ball joint into it and it'd have a thin rubber coating giving it that extra tightness for the socket.
__________________
|
| Back to Top |
|
| |
Register 
Login 
Active Topics 
Memberlist 
Search 
Help
Transformers Forum : Transformers Fan Art, Kitbashes & Customs
Topic: About Scratch Builds
